Got a new laptop? Get out your screwdriver
There's a lesson to be learned from my recent attempt at replacing the hard disk on an old laptop computer.
The computer in question had originally shipped in 2001 with Windows ME, but was now running Windows XP. I suspect the RAM had also been upgraded over time, it now had 512MB. Obviously the owner wanted the machine to last as long as possible. They weren't even deterred by the fact that the lettering had worn off some of the keys on the keyboard.
In line with this, I suggested that the hard disk be replaced, not because there was a problem with the original 10GB disk, but just to prolong the overall life span of the computer. Shortly thereafter I was given the laptop and a new $70 2.5 inch hard drive.
Hard disks keep track of diagnostic information about themselves using an internal system called Self-Monitoring, Analysis, and Reporting Technology, or SMART for short.
Windows does not display this SMART data, but assorted diagnostic programs can. The first thing I did, just out of curiosity, was display the SMART data for the existing hard disk. Although the computer owner had no complaints, the SMART data showed multiple problems. I'm no expert at interpreting SMART data, but with multiple numbers rated as failures by the diagnostic program, replacing the disk was all the more important--I feared the old disk might fail outright.
(Credit: Dell)The printed user guide for this old Dell Inspiron has instructions for replacing the hard disk that boil down to unscrew one screw, pull it out, replace the disk, put it back and tighten the screw.
The instructions fail to mention that the hard disk is attached to an aluminum enclosure with 4 screws. Four very tiny Phillips head screws. And one refused to budge. Forcing the screw where it didn't want to go simply converted the X on the head of the screw to a circle. Now the hard disk was bolted to the aluminum enclosure, and there it will stay.
Thanks to a single screw the owner of this laptop computer now has to buy a new machine.
This wasn't the first time I've been screwed by a tiny screw. Last year another hard drive replacement was thwarted on an old Toshiba laptop.
(Credit: Lenovo)Upgrading the RAM on a laptop is usually a very simple procedure. But, I once worked on a ThinkPad that had two screws on the RAM slot cover. One screw refused to budge and I was forced to bend the cover just enough to slide in the new DIMM.
For a new laptop computer, the conclusion is obvious--get out your screwdrivers and make sure that you can remove all the covers on the bottom of the machine and that none of the screws attached to the hard disk is stuck. I say this for a new laptop because you haven't yet started to depend on the computer in a serious way and it can, hopefully, be returned. To me at least, a stuck screw qualifies as a manufacturing defect, especially if it prevents upgrading the RAM or the hard disk.
For an existing laptop computer, the choice is not so clear-cut, especially regarding the hard disk. Hard drives are fragile and attempting to remove them or testing the screws entails some degree of risk. At the least, I suggest having a disk image backup of the entire machine before doing anything physical involving the hard drive.
Defensive Computing is built on Murphy's law, if something can go wrong, it will.
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Michael Horowitz is an independent computer consultant and the author of several classes on Defensive Computing. He is a member of the CNET Blog Network, and is not an employee of CNET. Disclosure.
Sorry for the sarcasm - it's a good tip. I will definitely check my hard drive screws (if easily accessible) from now on _before_ the warranty is up. Could even be a part of a "new laptop post-buy checklist"
You could also have hit eBay and purchased a new Hard Drive Caddy, which would then have made it so you could simply replace the drive... never needed to buy a new laptop, just replace the drive caddy, would cost $10-$20. Hell, worse case scenario, buy a parts laptop for cheap and do the same thing. heh.
1) drive sleds are available on ebay for almost any laptop still worth keeping, especially dell, ibm or toshiba
2) screws can be drilled out, which easily rescues a sled from an old drive
3) an ice pack on a stuck screw shrinks it as it cools
I'm sure you can get an individual one for a lot less, but I didn't look very long. Even this kit is a lot less than a new laptop. This is only slightly more complicated than ejevo's approach, and I'll bet that would work fine as well.
Suggesting for people to check every screw on their PC, and thusly return it as "defective" if there is a stubborn screw, only contributes to paranoia and misinformation. Just leave the thing alone until it breaks and let a professional fix it correctly.
When an "independent computer consultant" tells you he can't fix your computer because of a small screw, get a second opinion. If you do decide to buy a new computer, don't buy whatever he's trying to talk you into.
Last time I looked, that's cheaper than the $500 or so for a new laptop.
- Make sure you have the right tool for the job! Do NOT try to work a #1 phillips head screw loose with a #2 phillips screwdriver!
- Pay attention to what you're doing! I don't think I've ever stripped out a screw head without knowing it was going to happen. If it's not going to budge, screwing up the head won't help.
- THINK! I love the idea of using ice to cool the screw, thereby shrinking it a bit to loosen it up. I typically think the other way though, try to warm the area around the screw to get it to expand a little (I hate putting water anywhere near computer equipment, but that's just me:)). Same basic principle though, use physics to your advantage.
- Worst case scenario, they invented tiny drill bits for a reason. Small screws are easy to find in older chassis or that "loose screw drawer", but many times aren't really necessary. As long as it's held down and not flopping around loose, it's probably fine.
Perhaps I didn't stress just how small the screw in question was, it was smaller than those typically found in the case of a laptop computer, perhaps half the size. I'm sorry I didn't take a picture when I had the machine.
Someone suggested an ice pack to shrink the screw as it cools, but I've got to assume it will also shrink the surrounding area of the hard drive caddy. Not to mention water and/or moisture on a hard disk has got to be a bad thing.
As for buying a new hard disk caddy, in the case of the Toshiba laptop, the company did have them for sale but the cost was so high that it didn't pay to invest that much money in an old machine. I didn't investigate it for the Dell being pessimistic that they'd stock parts for a 6 or 7 year old machine.
At some point when any computer gets old, the cost of maintaining it, both in terms of time and money, is more than the machine is worth. It's a difficult call. In this case, a new hard disk was roughly $70 and the time and effort on my part should have been minimal, so it was an easy decision. But, once the upgrade was problematical, at what point do you stop throwing good money (and time) after bad?
Finally, I can't stress enough the importance of making a full disk image backup before attempting any type of activity on a hard disk.
Michael Horowitz
Several other posters suggesting getting a used sled from e-bay, not getting a new one. Why spend a bunch of money on an old clunker?
Here's an alternative I've tried only as a last resort. Dab some WD-40 on a Q-tip--make it fairly wet. Swath the screw and area around screw with it. No screw is airtight; no matter how tight, some WD-40 will seep down. Tap lightly on screw to try to loosen it (but not damage HD). Then, try the different techniques described above. The oiling should help. BTW do you know what WD-40 is?
FYI, a screw "in the HD" is held in by the holder (or whatever you call the thingy with the grooves). Doing something like drilling on the head of the screw should not effect the holder or the grooves. Trying to pull the screw out with it in the holder will be a problem, as the holder is attached to the HD.
RAB