HELSINKI, Finland -- I came here to listen for a death rattle.
It was a late Monday morning in late November when I arrived, and there was no sunlight. None. The sky was gray, bleaching out the city's colorful buildings. I asked the cab driver whether it would get any brighter, but he wasn't confident. The sun comes up late in the day and fades early in the afternoon this time of year. As even the Finns concede with a stoic chuckle, it's depressing.
Unsurprisingly, it's considered the worst time of the year to travel to … Read more